August 23

A lazy morning. I hike back up the hill for coffees and cinnamon rolls. We tidy up, say goodbye to David and Linda, then head for Stuart Island. We try to sail, there just isn't enough wind. We slow down and try trolling for Salmon, nothing there. A few seals come by to check us out. We pull in to Prevost Harbor, again, more crowded than we remember. Cell phone signal is enough to get voicemail, but that's about it. I go for a row looking for a better signal, nothing better here or across the isthmus at Reed Harbor (where Andy caught a seagull last trip ;-). We stay for the night, but will need to get going early because Monday is usually a heavy business day, and we really need to be in cell phone range. Beautiful sunset.

August 22

Breakfast of shrimp omelets (well, scrambled omelets). The shrimp looked much bigger in the water. Showers, then Cindy gets started on the mast, and I go up the hill to the store for ice, anticipating a quick fix then out of there. You can tell when the ferry's in, a flood of people are walking up Spring street as I'm walking down with 40 lbs of ice. Cindy discovers that the “stainless steel” hose clamps were not stainless enough. So, back up the hill to get the right stuff at West Marine. Back to the boat, get the mast clamped, then loosen the port shrouds to get everything back on the step plate. Re-tune the rigging. Then we have to get the turning block off the side of the mast and back through the deck, where it won't put that stress on the mast any more. Oops, we don't have the right tools. Back up the hill to that hardware store, they don't have the right stuff either (we need a really long drill bit and a drill that will get really close to the mast). They recommend the building supply store, a call over there confirms they have what we need, so another mile later we have the right tools. Back to the boat, and pay for another night's stay. As we get started on this repair, we are hailed by a guy on a sailboat three slips down, asking if we needed any tools. Why yes, and electric drill would make much faster work of this. He had one, and also some ideas on some other stuff we'd been working with. That chore went much more quickly. After dinner I play guitar for a while, and we invite David (they guy with the drill) and his wife Linda over for some social time. They are from Canada, she works for their equivalent of the IRS (a bean counter, like Cindy), and he does social work (like Doug and church youth). We stay up way too late, but it was a really good time sharing sea stories and boat repair and even politics and religion.

August 21

We motor from East Sound to Friday Harbor. I go up the hill, get a haircut (it had been 2 months and was looking pretty shaggy), get stainless steel hose clamps at the hardware store, and groceries. Drop those off at the boat and get and early dinner with Cindy. I re-enforce the oarlocks on the dinghy with a pair of 4 inch molly bolts, it's now better than new. An acoustic trio is playing in the park at the top of the dock, very nice. Cindy and Squishy turn in for the night, I hand net some shrimp for breakfast tomorrow. Fun, but took a while to get enough because shrimp are faster than one might expect.

August 20

We've had some problems with our email. I've made some adjustments, if you have sent us something we haven't responded to, please resend.

We motored over to Eastsound (the town) in East Sound (the bay) on Orcas Island. We tried to sail up, we've done this in past trips, but there just wasn't any wind. We set the anchor further out than 6 years ago (when we got up at 0200 to the tune of the 10ft depth alarm at low tide and reset the anchor in 15kt winds in the pitch black). Of course, as soon as we get set, the wind begins to pick up. I have things to do in town, so I head to shore in the dingy. Item 1, haircut. Of the 1 barber shop and 3 “salons” in town, none can take me today. Item 2, pet store. Best one in the islands, still no brushing mitt or scratching rug. I guess it doesn't matter much, we (including the cat) have gotten used to the way things are over the past five weeks. Item 3, Business. I find a place with internet access and power, order a light lunch to justify my presence, and get started. Get a call from Cindy, the boat is getting slapped silly between the wind (which has picked up more) and the waves. I finish up, dash to the store (item 4), then back to the dingy to row back to the boat. Against the wind the right oarlock breaks again, but is still functional, just at about half strength. Lop-sided, but I do make it back to the boat. Cindy had already let out more anchor rode to prevent dragging, so we are not in danger there. The weather forecast indicates it's supposed to lighten up, so we decide to stay. To keep the boat from swinging sideways (and getting smacked by wind waves) I rig a riding sail from a tarp and some duct tape to keep us better pointed in to the wind. It's not pretty but it works pretty well. In setting this up I discover that the turning block that I had mounted at the base of the mast has caused a split in the mast that will have to be corrected before we can hoist the main sail. Sigh. Back to a marina again tomorrow.

August 19

It was a shame to leave Ewing Cove, but our ice was getting low and we both wanted showers. The computer usage seemed to have been the big drain on our boat batteries. Since we have scaled back (hence the long gaps between blog updates) we have been able to keep the batteries topped up between motoring (2A), and the solar charger (0.3A), against the anchor light (0.8A x9hrs) and other boat instruments.
We had favorable current around the north and west sides of Orcas Island, past my old YMCA summer camp, Camp Orkila (only took 20 more years for Jesus to really sink in). We pull in to Deer Harbor (crowded, also a sea plane base), get fuel, ice, water, showers, and get out of there. We motor around to West Sound, to discover that the store the guide book says is there isn't any more. Rather than head up to Eastsound for provisions, we anchor here and make do with what we have until tomorrow. We both got a little sun this afternoon, so we spent time below getting caught up on email and this blog entry. Later, I try a little fishing (no), a little crabbing (crab ring gets stuck under the anchor road and gets to stay their until tomorrow), and finally I row over to a nearby public island for a little hike.

August 18

We decide to try for a quieter anchorage. Greg B's dad was right, Desolation Sound and its island are the new place to be (further north and less frequented. Maybe next year with some additional communication prep for Canada). We motored up to Patos Island (Patos means "duck" in Spanish) and just miss getting a mooring. The guide advises not trying to anchor, so we head back to Ewing Cove on Sucia Island 48 45.8N 122 52.89W We passed many harbor seals sunning on the rocks (so much nicer than sea lions on the docks) coming in and occasionally saw porpoises. Cindy and Squishy will enjoy the quiet. I row in to hike and explore the island, which is all a state park. God is good. We are glad we did not get a place at Shallow Bay as a narrow strip of land connects the bays and it was hosting a party that all of Shallow got to hear. We were far enough out we didn't. It was a warm day, definitely summer. Doug got an enjoyable 6 mile hike and probably a good mile of rowing in. We made a pot of chili for dinner (not a day for crabbing, fishing still not working for Doug), enjoyed hearing the seals bark (Squishy, not so much), owls hooting back and forth, and a Schooner coming in to anchor.

August 17

We head for the northern islands. They are smaller and house fewer boats so thinking midweek is best. We're able to sail up San Juan Channel for a while then the light winds shifted to right on the nose so we gave up and motored. The granite cliffs of Waldron Island blocked the cell signal from Orcas Island so we had to continue on around to Sucia. There are lots of places to anchor around Sucia. Our first choice was Shallow Bay and was full, mostly power boats, so we continued on around to Fox Cove. The one remaining mooring ball was under water and out of commission so we anchored out off the passage between Sucia and Little Sucia. There is current so I (Doug) rowed out our stern anchor. In doing so one of the oarlocks on the inflatable dinghy broke. Doesn't anything stay working? After getting the anchor set so we don't swing in to shore too far, and having dinner, I rowed over to the little island to deflate the dink and try to fix the oarlock. It will work, as long as I don't try to tow the sailboat against the current anymore. Small power boats tended to zoom through the cove most the evening, and between the wind and the current it was a very rocky night.

August 15 and 16

with full batteries we checked out and learned their pump out was broken so a brief trip back to Friday Harbor was necessary. Then on to Shaw Island, Parks Bay, 48 33.6N 122 58.7W It is a private bay, UW research site with protected anchorage, no fishing allowed. Only crabbing and then only Wednesday thru Saturday. No shore access means no dogs on boats, Squishy loved that. Beautiful and reasonably quiet even with 20 boats there.

For our last trip we bought a Gunkholing guide book, written in 2000. It stated it could hold 14 but they had never seen more that 6. Things are a changing. Including the weather. Perfect by my narrow expectations and expected to last thru the week between 70 & 80 degrees. Gotta love it and so pleasant we stayed for Sunday. Doug pulled out his guitar and we had our own little church service.

August 14

Fisherman's Bay (still). Doug checked the batteries again and we motored to the dock for the night to recharge again. We discussed more options and extremes to avoid power drains, obviously giving favor to Doug's business needs and navigational/safety tools. My emails and web posting will stay in the picture but all web searches except business is gone. Other wise a pretty uneventful day. We got showers, some supplies at the marina store, and Doug walked to Lopez Village (about a mile away) to explore and buy some groceries, and enjoyed eating blackberries from the side of the road.

August 12-13

August 12, 13. Checkout time came and we had to leave before the boat batteries were completely charged up. We thought no big deal we'll anchor out and if we need more parts can row back. The anchor area was very bumpy and congested, with lots of traffic in and out, not conducive to working in the lockers, hanging upside down, etc. so we decided to go to Fisherman's Bay just across the San Juan Channel and back to Lopez Island on the west. We had tools and mess everywhere so motored in perfectly good wind. Nearly killed us but kept the boat flat so we didn't have to spend ½ hour putting everything away to take it all back out or watch it fly across the cabin. 48 30.673'N 122 55.247' W we got every thing done yesterday in another beautiful day of summer. Stayed parked for a second night. It's mellowing us all and and we're learning to ignore the sea planes that roar past us 10-12 times a day. A cool start to today so Doug created his own warmth by rowing to land to post letters . He was going to get some breakfast and let me sleep but $10 for a bowl of cereal and no decaf coffee so he got himself an ice cream, and came back and caught some crabs. Yummy lunch!

The rains are back in earnest and we are holed up with fresh batteries and ability to keep them charged so I took the time to type this and he and Squishy are napping. The Islands in general have definitely become much more commercial and chaotic. This is quite busy with boats buzzing through frequently. Certainly not a first choice for a weekend. We will find a quiet place with cell range tomorrow.

On the personal notes, it's been a very good week for contact with our kids. Andy sent email. He is living with his birth mom and working for her doing janitorial while he tries to get a “real” job. He will try to start school in the fall but not sure of details there, waiting lists, money, course work, etc.

Jessa sent a letter which Gina read to me. She is happy she decided to joint the marines and I quote “It's actually kind of fun.” She has been at boot camp 2 weeks now. It was a sweet letter that has opened that door again. Praise God!

Love to all,
Cindy, Doug & Squishy

August 11

August 11. We motor out into the clear but as we rounded a corner it was pea soup so we found a place off to the west side to anchor and wait out the fog. Sailed off of anchor into our first beautiful day of summer and went to Friday Harbor.

One of two tourist meccas of the Islands and we try to avoid them. Sometimes the benefits outweigh the chaos or at least force the hand. San Juan County fair started the 12th so we wanted in and out. Showers, provisions, recharge all batteries, investigate why our batteries and charging system weren't keeping up with recharging batteries and research cell signals on the Islands (Hauling a deep cycle marine battery up Spring street for testing is not exactly our idea of fun, but it was good exercise). We don't remember this much difficulty the last trip. I think that implies only the best memories stayed with us. Naturally the local Ace, Car Quest, Radio Shack, and West Marine, the grocery store, and a very nice restaurant were glad to see us. Oops didn't write down coordinates so here's the marina entrance with promise we did not park in the middle. 48 32.48' N, 123 00.78'W

August 10

August 10th We motor out and around to Hunter Bay, in the interior of Lopez Sound, at 48 27.64' N, 122 51.42'W on the west side. Really enjoyed it to. It was raining, Doug rowed out to the rocks to try fishing, but ended up just wet. Next set of phone batteries dead by morning, and the anchor light seems to be running the batteries down faster than they should. Boats with inboard motors can keep up with the house battery drain, but our little outboard only charges at 65 watts, so we had to go find power.

August 8-9

August 8-9 Doug finished the client update and we moved the boat south of town to escape the boat traffic. We had a peaceful night. Next morning we decided to head across the Straight of Juan de Fuca to the San Juan Islands (about 25 miles). We had some wind so got to motor for a while. Visibility was not the best, we had to be very watchful for other traffic. The excitement but not necessarily fun time came when a very off course little brown bat started buzzing us off. It tried to hang on to the sail canvas but every time it fell off it buzzed us. Hard to focus on sail trim when its flying through. Finally we started the motor to out run it. Like a bad omen, that killed the wind, so we motored the rest of the way.

We made it to the San Juan Islands Sunday before the three days of rains were to come.  Aleck Bay on the South end of Lopez Island (48 25.61' N, 122 51.57' W) is a very quiet little anchorage.  Even Squishy felt comfortable and came to hang out in the cockpit with me, of course before the rains started.  Wow!  This is what I remember appreciating.  Peaceful, relaxing, and beautiful. Only known problem was cell coverage was questionable.  Doug went out rowing the bay looking for better signal to move to.  Didn't find any but we decided to stay for the night knowing Monday morning we would have to move for business. Phones appeared to roam all night and wore down one set of batteries. I think we got all three days worth of rain overnight. Washed all the salt water off the boat. Squishy is getting used to the rain on fiberglass just above her head.

August 7-8

August 7-8. Port Townsend Marina. Hi to all. Sorry it has been so long between posts. Doug has one outlined but work keeps interfering, hard to fight with that. His job gives us this opportunity, but also sets its limits on us.

Are we having fun yet? Believe it or not, Yes! But it’s very weird. We thought the head (marine toilet) rebuild would take a few hours yesterday but did it wrong first and had to sit on hold for customer support, (think Verizon). They talked us through that. We corrected and did it right. Then had to call them back to hold some more because the operating handle was soooo stiff we thought it had to be wrong and were afraid of breaking it. An extra day later, they are east coast and marina’s have checkout times like hotels, all’s good just push the little lever harder. Laundry is clean, bodies are clean, Worst (West) Marine is richer and we are not! But we are gone as we motor out of clean, noisy, moorage to a quiet anchorage where we each could get some work done.

Wrong again. We spent much time looking for the elusive curser that went into hiding with each bob of he boat or the typo created by her bobs. We had small motor vessels weaving in and out of anchored boat at full speed. Sailboats bounce and rock LOTS when wake is created. It that wasn’t enough other sailboats were “racing” around anchored sailboats to practice racing skills and boat trim. Where’s my privacy bubble? Not to mention the evil kitty eyes glaring at me because of course, we all know it is all my fault.

Doug’s 3-hour estimate for a software update at a client site turned in to 6 1/2 so far and has no ending in view, but in an available window we ran away deeper into the bay for some peace and quiet. Forecast sounds like we made a good choice as we may be here a few days, lots of potential for rain. It’s only 7 but Squishy and I will soon go to bed and be up when the sun gets to us.
Doug will post this after his work is done. We're now peacefully anchored at 48 06.092 N 122 46.78 W.

The Straight of Juan de Fuca is the path to the San Juan Islands. It is known for major but variable currents so we choose our direction and timing carefully based on Washburn Tables, statistics that tell us how much current, where and in which direction each hour of the clock. We are really praying that the atmosphere there is as positive as we remember it. We have had enough smelly fishing ports and noisy working ports to last a few months.

We have finally figured out the equation to conducting business without entering moorages so often. Anchoring out is where we find the peace, beauty, and pleasure without the chaos. Now all we need to do is pull in to shower and provision and be gone.

Trivia facts:

Did you know that a basic SS hose clamp is $1.39 in local hardware stores and $1.99 at Worst Marine?

Worst Marine is at the docks and hardware stores are ½ mile either direction. We walked lots.

At home our boat fits in, if not looks great because it gets used. (Seaweed and algae cling to those around us in the docks.) Here it looks dilapidated, old and uncared for. We make repairs as needed for functionality and safety, not appearance. Here lots of racers pay for all repairs to be done, including cosmetics, and hoist their boats out and pressure wash, paint, sand, or some combination thereof for speed every year. We slapped on 6 coats of bottom paint, with the bottom 2 layers being a different color to tell us when we had to repaint, 6 years ago in our drive way. We are changing color now and will have to pull and redo this year after we get back from the salt water. We’re cheap sorts but that’s what allows us to have a boat to play in.

Love and good night to all.
Cindy, Doug and Squishy!

August 7

Port Townsend, WA. Laundry and Showers. A cool little marine exchange store to get a spare fuel hose, map dividers, and a third hand dingy pump. Too bad the little outboard has a seized piston, would have been great for the dingy. West Marine for the head rebuild kit and some other parts. "123 Thai" has really good take away (you have to try their "fresh roll" with peanut sauce). The taco stand, not so good. We were able to get a crab "catcher" at the hardware store, not quite what Doug was after but it will allow us to revert the fish net back into a "cat scoop" in case Squishy goes overboard. So far, she's showing very little interest in going outside. And we can get everything recycled (except cardboard). It's noisy here, boats in and out and a guy across the way's been hammering on his boat all day. It takes us most of the day to get the head repaired. Doug has a software upgrade to do for a client tomorrow afternoon, we plan on anchoring out to do that.

The dingy had managed to take on many gallons of water. Still investigating where that came from, it might have been a wave that pooped the dink and sent the crab trap overboard, too. The (not) new dingy pump made short work of that, and I re-inflate the keel. Rides better now, but still checking in case of a leak.

August 6

Dungeness Bay. 48 08.745N, 123 05.487W.

Porpoises and Harbor Seals greet us. The seals are fascinating, splashing around to get other's attention. But not getting close enough for good pictures :-(.

Kind of a rolly night, with winds pushing the boat one way and waves the other. We'll have to start setting a stern anchor out. Great name for a place to be without a crab trap :-(. So Doug improvises one out of our fish net, a couple of lead weights, a rubber band, and a can of cat food (see picture). And it works! We catch 4, one of which is legal to keep. We have that one for lunch. Then we hoist the hook and motor over to Port Townsend for parts and more repair. The dingy seems to be riding funny, low in the stern no matter how far back we position it. Need to check in to.

August 3-5

Still no wind, but favorable current. We motor from Neah Bay to Port Angeles, about 10 hours. Doug still having to do some work along the way, and catch up on sleep also, so Cindy got to do most of the driving. The cell phone reception (what Doug requires to connect with customers) has been great. Somewhere along the way the crab trap flipped out of the dingy, so we'll have to do something about that, or waste the cost of Washington fishing licenses. Doug figures if we get 9 crabs it will pay for itself (discounting the entertainment value). We sail into the Port Angeles city pier, but there are no facilities there, and with our macerator pump not working off the coast, and no working pumpout at Neah Bay (hasn't worked for 3 years), we really needed our holding tank pumped, so really needed to get over the Port Angeles Boat Haven. While at the city pier met Max and Sherry (from Reedsport, OR). Max said he might have a spare pump on board, and would be in to the Haven tomorrow. We head over, are able to pump out and get a place to tie up for the night.

Next morning we get (hot) showers, get to the hardware store for replacement hoses, and Max shows up and amazingly does have a replacement macerator pump. I offer him $200 for it, he says "naw, just send me a replacement when they come on sale, I've got two on board." Got to love sailors. Plug it in, fits almost perfectly. Put in new (clear) hoses so we can verify functionality. Bid goodbye, motor back over to the city pier to provision at Safeways and spend the night. The City pier is a little bouncy with waves, and a lot of people are on it late crabbing. Squishy is not pleased. Next morning I hike to Swains's general store. They have everything, just out of stock on crab rings. I was able to get some more hose for the ice box and head (toilet). It's functional, but acting less than normal. We call ahead to West Marine in Port Townsend, they have the rebuild kit in stock, so we'll be stopping there soon.

Early afternoon we motor over to Dungeness bay and set anchor for the night.

August 2

We get showers, we get provisions (ice and water), we get a chantrel mushroom pizza for lunch in town (yum), then we try to get out of there to anchor way from the fish and diesel smell. We have the outboard shear pin issue (see below), but when we get out have a peaceful night in the bay. Except for an emergency customer call which kept Doug up most of the night, and on into the next day. Sigh.

Days 18-19

July 31-August 1, Grays Harbor to Neah Bay via La Push.
Sorry posts might be out of order, this post is before the outoboard issue.

The weather report is really favorable, even advertising wind from the south. We finished getting the cabinet glued back together and installed, trucked the garbage out (why doesn't this place have recycling for anything other than cardboard?) And get under way. Uneventful crossing of the Grays harbor bar, we turn the corner and head north.
No wind. Nada. We motor. The ocean is calm with a gentle roll. There always seems to be a line of crab traps the direction we're going, we try to get outside of them so they don't get tangled in our propeller. Cloudy, so no stars. Drizzle. I was concerned about fuel, and had decided to go in to La Push for that. At full speed we would have been there well before fuel dock hours, so we slowed down and time our entrance after sunrise. We get in, but the only life in the marina is fishing boats going out for the weekend tuna fishing tournament. I find a phone number and get hold of the fuel dock guy, he'll be down in 5 minutes. An hour later we've got our fuel and we're out of there. A porpoise leads us out of the bay, and we continue on north. Again, the wind is not existent, so we motor all the way to Neah bay, arriving at 4:30pm. On arrival we discover that we had plenty of fuel for the trip, and had wasted 5 hours with the stop in La Push. Another lesson learned.

Days 14-17

July 28-30, Newport, Grays Harbor, Washington.
The sail up the coast was fantastic, we actually did sail until about 1:00am when the wind died, then it started up again about 0400 with us making pretty good progress to windward. Sailing at night, by the compass, the wind in the sails, and a bazillion stars is quite the experience. I've posted our track up the coast. We did end up motoring the last 4 hours in to Grays Harbor (that would be the straight line north). Spent the next several days provisioning, repairs (one of our drawer sets broke because of all the heavy stuff we had loaded in the space behind it), trying to get Doug healthy (still has that cough), and doing some work.
Westport is a fishing town. Several charter companies, many commercial boats. Lots of traffic going in and out. Amenities for cruisers are few. The grocery store is a couple of miles from the port, but there is bus service. A few places to eat, mostly fish and chips. Fishermen drink coffee, not mochas. The "showers" are in an RV park a couple blocks away, coin operated, but no hot water! There is a good marine parts store about a mile away.
On our way out of Astoria we heard several reports over the radio of boats going aground, and at Grays Harbor we met one of them. Check out this link: http://web.me.com/nancyayres/Geist_Blog/Blog/Blog.html (even honest enough to post pictures). Great group of guys, got some needed advice on sail trim. They're on their way to Alaska.

Sailing Axioms

“Sailing: long periods of boredom, punctuated by periods of terror.”

As we were pulling out of our slip at Makah Marina, Neah bay, WA, the engine suddenly raced, then quit. The wind pushed us towards the fish cleaning dock, we were able to hale some hands to fend us off. I was able to get the engine restarted, and discovered that if I didn't rev the motor up to much I could get steerage way back in to a slip.

“B O A T = Break Out Another Thou$and”

My first thought is that we stripped the transmission of the outboard. Time to buy a new motor. I climb into the dingy and hoist business end of the motor out of the water, while Cindy gets out the engine manual and starts reading. Key word: shear pin. Lord, please let it be a shear pin. (a shear pin is designed to break if the propeller jams, saving the engine and transmission from damage. They are relatively easy to replace).

“Cruising: repairing your boat in strange and exotic places”

I take apart the propeller assembly, being very careful not to “kerplink” anything. Yep, shear pin in three pieces. Praise you Lord Jesus! Then, I think, I'm in a marina on an Indian reservation in NW Washington, who's going to have a shear pin for a 27 year old Honda outboard (which are hard to get parts for anyway)?
Answer: There are two sets of replacements strapped to the side of the engine. I get one set installed without kerplinking, and we're once again on our way. I vow to stop saying negative things about my trusty motor. We motor out into the bay to set anchor, away from the noise and smell.

Where we are now

Sorry we haven't kept up on the blog, have had a variety of events keeping us away from the computer. We are currently in Port Angeles, Washington. Having some problems with the head (aka toilet) that we hope we can get parts here. Will know more tomorrow. I've updated pictures, here's where we've been:

7/31 Westport, WA 46 54.6N 124 06.7W
8/1 La Push, WA (short stop on the way north). 47 55N 124 37.9W
8/1 Makah Marina, Neah Bay, WA. 48 22.1N 124 36.7W (engine repair)
8/2 Neah Bay (anchor out, less smelly) 48 22.4N 124.36.7W
8/3 Port Angeles, WA 48 07N 123 27W, will probably be here another day.